Givenchy's Autumn/Winter 2019 menswear collection was a compelling exploration of dark romanticism, a brooding yet undeniably alluring aesthetic that resonated deeply with both critics and fashion enthusiasts. Clare Waight Keller, then at the helm of Givenchy, delivered a collection that transcended fleeting trends, offering a sophisticated and nuanced vision of masculine style. This article delves into the key elements of the AW19 show, examining the runway looks, the beauty choices, the models who brought the collection to life, and the critical reception it garnered, while also exploring the broader context of Givenchy's menswear offerings, including its unisex line, online presence, and retail options.
Runway Looks: A Symphony of Silhouettes and Textures
The AW19 runway was a masterclass in tailoring and textural play. Waight Keller expertly blended classic Givenchy elements with a modern sensibility. The collection showcased a range of silhouettes, from sharply tailored suits – often in deep, rich colours like midnight blue and charcoal grey – to more relaxed, oversized pieces that offered a counterpoint to the structured tailoring. The use of luxurious fabrics was a defining feature: cashmere, wool, and leather were employed to create garments that felt both opulent and inherently masculine.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was the incorporation of contrasting textures. Smooth leather jackets were paired with rough-knit sweaters, while crisp cotton shirts were layered under fluid silk scarves. This juxtaposition created a sense of dynamic tension, highlighting the multifaceted nature of the collection’s aesthetic. The colour palette was predominantly dark and moody, reflecting the overall theme of dark romanticism. Black, grey, navy, and burgundy dominated, punctuated by occasional flashes of brighter colours, often seen in subtle details like lining or stitching.
Several key pieces stood out. The oversized coats, with their dramatic silhouettes and luxurious fabrics, were particularly memorable, epitomizing the collection's sophisticated nonchalance. Similarly, the tailored trousers, often worn with high-waisted belts, demonstrated a commitment to classic menswear principles, updated with contemporary proportions. The inclusion of more casual pieces, such as hoodies and sweatpants, hinted at a broader appeal, suggesting that the collection aimed to cater to a diverse range of tastes and lifestyles. However, even these more relaxed pieces were elevated by the use of high-quality materials and meticulous construction, ensuring they retained a sense of luxury and sophistication.
Beauty and Models: Enhancing the Narrative
The beauty aspect of the AW19 show played a crucial role in reinforcing the collection's dark romantic theme. The models' hair was styled in a variety of ways, ranging from sleek, slicked-back looks to more textured, tousled styles. This variety reflected the collection's diverse range of silhouettes and styles. Makeup was minimal, focusing on enhancing natural features. A slightly smudged eyeliner and a touch of bronzer created a look that was both sophisticated and effortlessly cool.
The casting of the models was equally important. The diverse lineup showcased a range of ethnicities and body types, reflecting a move towards a more inclusive and representative vision of masculinity. This deliberate choice broadened the collection's appeal and demonstrated a commitment to representing a wider spectrum of men. The models’ expressions and poses further enhanced the overall mood of the show, conveying a sense of brooding intensity and quiet confidence that perfectly complemented the clothes.
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